Thursday, June 2, 2022

Easy Rider II, Day 20, April 5, 2022

El Paso's South Stanton Street

Sure glad I took a break from the bike today, because the winds kicked up as forcefully as forecast, with gusts of up to 40 mph.


Still, I got in more than 5 miles of hiking, sightseeing and running errands around El Paso's downtown.


My morning began with a walk south on Stanton St. to the Mexico border, where I bought bananas, apples and tangelos (deliciosas!) at Mata’s, a colorful and bustling market, where Spanish was the primary ( and maybe only?) language.


I had hoped to get a $6 haircut at a nearby salon but was informed by the jefe (boss) that they were only cutting women’s hair today.


I found another barber, Chema, closer to the more upscale part of town.


Chema, who hails from Juarez, agreed to trim my hair and beard for $30, and I gave it a go, even though the price seemed as high or higher than those back home (maybe turista pricing?).


Chema speaks little English and I understand Spanish a lot better than I speak it. But we were easily able to communicate, and I really enjoyed chatting with him. He has a collection of luchador (Mexican wrestling) masks on his wall,  and he certainly looks like he could have been in the ring at some point. He denied being a wrestler, but not forcefully. 



My big score today was a $9, all-you-can-eat luncheon buffet (including iced tea and dessert) at El Encanto de Villa. A local recommended this off-the-beaten-track Mexican restaurant to me. I tried and liked everything on the menu, and I particularly enjoyed the savory meatball soup.


The restaurant serves breakfast, or el desayuno, starting at 7:30 am. So I may drop by for some huevos rancheros on my way out of town tomorrow.


Also today I mailed home about 6 pounds of stuff I either haven’t used thus far or don’t expect to need any more, including a puffy jacket, my leg warmers and an extra pair of sandals. My Chacos sandals seem to adequately cover all my footwear needs, including for pedaling.


Just for grins, I had originally planned to stay in the Gardner Hotel's room 108 tonight, where author Cormac McCarthy did much of his writing.


But I decided to stay in my own Dillinger-like room again instead, because I have my own bathroom and 108 shares two bathrooms with the numerous other bathroom-less rooms on the hotel’s second floor.


Seemed to me like a long-term stay in 108 could feed the dark outlook on life evident in McCarthy’s No Country for Old Men and The Road.





Chema, with his luchador masks

El Paso post office




Cormac McCarthy's Room 108




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